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Spring is when many insects begin anew. Some start with only a fertile queen. Some have gone dormant in winter and emerge when temperatures are warm. Some are active through winter and use spring as a time to send out reproductives. Such is the case with termites. Although spring is most likely the time to see termite activity, these insects are hard at work year round. Spring is when most termite colonies send out reproductives, or swarmers, and this “swarm” indicates a termite infestation. Properly identifying termites can save property damage, time and money.
Facts
Termites do not like to expose themselves so they build dirt tunnels through which they travel. These will be readily seen on foundation walls, studs inside wall voids and on sill plate on top of foundation walls. Their tunnels are used to carry food, stabilize temperature and regulate moisture. They also allow termite swarmers to exit the colony. Swarmers are generated once or twice a year and do nothing but leave an existing colony in search of another location where they can start a new colony.
However, swarmers are very important. Any sign of swarmers indicates active termites since we know swarmers can only emerge where active termites have created mud tunnels. If you have termite swarmers in your home or immediately adjacent to the home, you have active termites which need to be treated. Don’t ignore this important sign. Acting early and quickly will prevent damage and minimize infestation levels which makes controlling them all the more easy. Make note of where the activity was most concentrated and so that when you treat the key areas are treated thoroughly. This is usually in one of several locations around the home. Porches, stoops, garage door jams, where garage slabs attach to basements, patio’s, any door entrance, furnace rooms and crawl spaces with dirt floors. Keep in mind termites generally appear where it is damp and dark but they will take advantage of whatever they can including pressure treated lumber, decks, landscape timber and even live trees!
Swarmers are often mistaken for small ants. If you experience a swarm this spring, look for the differences between ants and termites to determine which you have. There are three key differences between the two:
The termite swarmer appears to have two distinct body parts – a head which is attached to an oval body whereas the ant swarmer appears to have three sections – a head, a thorax and an abdomen. This can usually be seen with the naked eye. A trained individual can see this quickly.
Ants have antennae which are elbowed. Look for this bend to be about 90 degrees. Termites have antennae which are straight. This is a big difference and can usually be seen with the naked eye. Having a magnifying glass will enable you to see this quickly.
The third major difference is termite swarmers tend to lose their wings. Expect to see a small pile of wings where most swarmers emerged. You may notice some swarmers without wings walking around. This is normal.
Once identified, you can prepare yourself to do a treatment. If you’ve determined that you have termites, read on.
Treatment Options
Since termites enter on foundation walls, through hollow foundations and up from under slabs, traditional treatments have been to treat the soil through which they travel. The concept has been to create a barrier and that if termites were to travel through it, they would die. This has long been the accepted method and when done right will keep termites out. To treat outside the home, simply dig a trench against the foundation wall 4-6 inches deep. You need a trench so that when the chemical is applied it does not run off. The treatment involves applying chemical to this trench and allowing it to soak in. When the right material is used, the treatment should last several years. Equally important is being sure to apply the right amount of product for the area being treated.
To treat hollow block, you will need to drill into the voids of the block. This may be a necessary treatment if such block was used for the foundation walls. Treatment involves pumping the chemical into the holes. This should provide several years of protection – probably longer than outside applications – since such spaces are well protected from the weather. An exact measurement will be needed in order to determine just how much material should be applied. If the house is a slab or has a slab attached, you may need to drill and treat through the slab as well. Holes should be spaced one foot apart. Drill down from the top of the slab and drill the holes 6-9 inches away from the wall. Hammer drills are designed for this work and 1/2″ holes are the most common size drilled. The chemical is then applied through the holes and will form a barrier under the slab to stop the termites from being able to enter. Although most of these applications are done with liquid, Foam sometimes proves to be valuable. Since gaps can occur under slabs when dirt settles, traditional liquids are not able to get all areas covered. The soil not treated or the bottom of the exposed slab not treated provide pathways on which termites can travel. By using foam, you are able to “carry” the pesticide up and onto the bottom of the slab. This has proved to be invaluable for some homes where settling has occurred underneath the slab and several standard treatments have failed to stop the invasion.
Although you may feel the wood which has been damaged by termite activity needs to be treated to effectively control them, this is seldom the case. Most infestations are controlled by treating the soil. The only exception to this is when treating for drywood termites. Drywood termites have the unique ability to survive with very little moisture but more importantly, above the soil! Drywood termites are only found in a few states but cause substantial damage where they are active. This is due mostly to the fact that they access the structure far away and removed from where people are likely to see their activity. It is not uncommon to have drywood termites enter around rain gutters and soffits. Once colonies start feeding is when the damage occurs and at this time the homeowner notices the rotting wood. Soil living termites use mud tunnels when they come up so many times aware homeowners see the new activity before the termites are able to do any damage. Drywood termites are most common in southern California, Arizona and Florida. However, there is some activity in Texas, New Mexico, Louisiana, southern Alabama, Georgia and South Carolina. Unless you are sure you have Drywood termites, don’t limit your treatment to the wood only. Dampwood termites, Formosan and all the other subspecies of subterranean termites need to have thorough soil treatments done if your intention is to both keep out and protect the structure. Since the barrier in the soil prevents the termites from being able to enter the home, the ones left in the wood will die from dehydration. Termites need moisture on a regular basis and usually will return to the soil at least once a day. When the soil is properly treated, they will surely die and pose no risk if left untreated.
In the past couple of years, termite bait stations have become another tool which can be used when treating for termites. The concept is simple; by installing treated stakes into the ground foraging termites will find the stakes, eat them, share them with the colony and ultimately kill the colony. This sounds so appealing for several reasons. First, it is very easy to do. Second, it is inexpensive and third, it works for ants and roaches so why not for termites? Well, there are many reasons why it won’t work every time.
First, it is not likely every termite colony which is active on your property will find a treated station on which to feed. It is very likely that some colonies will find the stations and the treated bait will have an impact on that colony. However, it is more likely that more colonies will miss the stations all together. Some of these will undoubtedly find their way to your home.
Secondly, baiting for insects works well when that insects colonization habits tend to be for the establishment of small colonies. In fact, the larger the colony of any insect, the harder it becomes to control with a bait. This is true for rodents as well. One lone rodent or one lone roach is easy to control with a bait; 30 rats or 300 roaches will probably require the use of bait and spray.
Thirdly, baits work best for insects which target specific food supplies and tend to feed exclusively on that food. In other words, the use of baits is most effective when the target pest is most likely to feed on one type of food source.
Though termites target cellulose specifically, because there is so much of it around it is not likely the whole colony will feed on the treated wood alone. If enough of the treated stations are not ingested by the colony, the colony will survive. This is why it is best to view the use of bait stations as another tool for termite control. Don’t rely on bait stations alone; incorporate them into a complete package which includes liquid treatments around the entire home to prevent termites from gaining access to the home, wood and void treatment where termite activity has been noted and bait station placements where you have ideal conditions for termites to be present. This diversified defense will provide the best overall protection. Remember, wood and void treatment is designed to kill current activity. Soil treatments are designed to protect the structure by creating a treated band of soil around the home through which the termites cannot enter. Bait stations are designed to be used as monitors around the home intended on impacting local colonies BEFORE THEY EVER GET TO YOUR HOME. Clearly the best treatment strategy is the combination approach.
Termite Control Products
Now that you have a general understanding of the termite and the application methods needed for controlling this pest, you can consider which products to use for treating your infestation. If you want to do some treating for termites, first decide where you want to treat.
Wood Treatments
Baygon Aerosol
If you have wood damage or what might be current termite activity in a wall void, use some BAYGON AEROSOL. This product comes with a tube which enables you to inject it deep into damaged wood cavities or galleries created by termites. Baygon is easy to use, kills termites on contact and will last for several months in the wood.
Boracare
If you have a large area of exposed wood you would like to treat, use BORACARE. This product is in the Boron family so it is both low in odor and safe. It is clear, mixes with water and is applied with a pump sprayer. Boracare works for powderpost beetles, carpenter ants and decay fungi. It has special carriers which enable it to penetrate untreated wood. Boracare works as a stomach poison. If termites try to eat treated wood, they will die. Boracare lasts a long time. A good treatment is expected to last several years and even longer when applied into protected wall voids where breakdown due to rain and sunshine will not occur. If you have a small area to treat, the Baygon will suffice. If you have a large area like a the wood joists and sill plate above a crawl space, use the Boracare.
Termidor
And if you’ve had an ongoing problem and want the best active possible, go with the TERMIDOR. It’s a bit pricey but if there are termites in the space, it will knock them out for sure. It’s different in that it uses the “transfer effect” which means the chemical is passed on from termite to termite once one comes in contact with it. Termites can’t detect it’s even present so they don’t know what’s causing the problem once they start dying. Typically they’ll retreat once this happens and your infestation will simply disappear. Termidor is rapidly becoming the product of choice when troubleshooting a problem area and many companies are opting to use it around the home as well for their complete soil barrier. Unlike the conventional liquids which repel termites, Termidor is undetectable so the termites won’t try to circumvent or move around where it’s been applied.
Soil Treatments
Now that you know what to use for treating wall voids where Drywood or Subterranean termites might be living, you need to consider a soil treatment. As explained above, this material will bind to the soil and provide several years of protection. This will keep foraging termites from finding your house and feeding on it.
If you want the best protection possible, go with the TERMIDOR. Granted it does cost more to apply but since it’s undetectable, the local termite population won’t even know its there. That means the risk of them “moving around” or trying to find gaps in the barrier is effectively eliminated. All these products are low to no odor and are easy to work with. Apply the material with a HOSE END SPRAYER. Use this applicator for treating trenches but it can also be used if you are treating mulch piles, pine straw, wood chips and other places around the home and/or adjacent to the structure where termites like to feed. If you have termite tunnels going up a tree you don’t want damaged, be sure to treat it at the base. Be careful and safe.
Conclusion
In summary, termites are a pest which can cause a lot of damage in and around the home. In order to protect the structure you own, use a combination of the best materials and application methods available today. These include wall or void treatment when treating for drywood termites or active subterranean termites, subslab and perimeter soil treatments alongside foundation walls to prevent the local colonies from having access to your home and bait station installations to monitor local activity. This approach will help you keep activity on your property minimized as well as out of your home.
Many thanks to BugSpray.com for contributing this article. If you have any questions about termites or any mentioned in this article, just give BugSpray a call or shoot them an email:
You can discuss the article below in the comments section or share it through a variety of different sites. You can also sign up to our newsletter below. Don’t forget to check our Pest Control Directory for companies in your area who do termite control.
Facts
Termites do not like to expose themselves so they build dirt tunnels through which they travel. These will be readily seen on foundation walls, studs inside wall voids and on sill plate on top of foundation walls. Their tunnels are used to carry food, stabilize temperature and regulate moisture. They also allow termite swarmers to exit the colony. Swarmers are generated once or twice a year and do nothing but leave an existing colony in search of another location where they can start a new colony.
However, swarmers are very important. Any sign of swarmers indicates active termites since we know swarmers can only emerge where active termites have created mud tunnels. If you have termite swarmers in your home or immediately adjacent to the home, you have active termites which need to be treated. Don’t ignore this important sign. Acting early and quickly will prevent damage and minimize infestation levels which makes controlling them all the more easy. Make note of where the activity was most concentrated and so that when you treat the key areas are treated thoroughly. This is usually in one of several locations around the home. Porches, stoops, garage door jams, where garage slabs attach to basements, patio’s, any door entrance, furnace rooms and crawl spaces with dirt floors. Keep in mind termites generally appear where it is damp and dark but they will take advantage of whatever they can including pressure treated lumber, decks, landscape timber and even live trees!
Swarmers are often mistaken for small ants. If you experience a swarm this spring, look for the differences between ants and termites to determine which you have. There are three key differences between the two:
Once identified, you can prepare yourself to do a treatment. If you’ve determined that you have termites, read on.
Treatment Options
Since termites enter on foundation walls, through hollow foundations and up from under slabs, traditional treatments have been to treat the soil through which they travel. The concept has been to create a barrier and that if termites were to travel through it, they would die. This has long been the accepted method and when done right will keep termites out. To treat outside the home, simply dig a trench against the foundation wall 4-6 inches deep. You need a trench so that when the chemical is applied it does not run off. The treatment involves applying chemical to this trench and allowing it to soak in. When the right material is used, the treatment should last several years. Equally important is being sure to apply the right amount of product for the area being treated.
To treat hollow block, you will need to drill into the voids of the block. This may be a necessary treatment if such block was used for the foundation walls. Treatment involves pumping the chemical into the holes. This should provide several years of protection – probably longer than outside applications – since such spaces are well protected from the weather. An exact measurement will be needed in order to determine just how much material should be applied. If the house is a slab or has a slab attached, you may need to drill and treat through the slab as well. Holes should be spaced one foot apart. Drill down from the top of the slab and drill the holes 6-9 inches away from the wall. Hammer drills are designed for this work and 1/2″ holes are the most common size drilled. The chemical is then applied through the holes and will form a barrier under the slab to stop the termites from being able to enter. Although most of these applications are done with liquid, Foam sometimes proves to be valuable. Since gaps can occur under slabs when dirt settles, traditional liquids are not able to get all areas covered. The soil not treated or the bottom of the exposed slab not treated provide pathways on which termites can travel. By using foam, you are able to “carry” the pesticide up and onto the bottom of the slab. This has proved to be invaluable for some homes where settling has occurred underneath the slab and several standard treatments have failed to stop the invasion.
Although you may feel the wood which has been damaged by termite activity needs to be treated to effectively control them, this is seldom the case. Most infestations are controlled by treating the soil. The only exception to this is when treating for drywood termites. Drywood termites have the unique ability to survive with very little moisture but more importantly, above the soil! Drywood termites are only found in a few states but cause substantial damage where they are active. This is due mostly to the fact that they access the structure far away and removed from where people are likely to see their activity. It is not uncommon to have drywood termites enter around rain gutters and soffits. Once colonies start feeding is when the damage occurs and at this time the homeowner notices the rotting wood. Soil living termites use mud tunnels when they come up so many times aware homeowners see the new activity before the termites are able to do any damage. Drywood termites are most common in southern California, Arizona and Florida. However, there is some activity in Texas, New Mexico, Louisiana, southern Alabama, Georgia and South Carolina. Unless you are sure you have Drywood termites, don’t limit your treatment to the wood only. Dampwood termites, Formosan and all the other subspecies of subterranean termites need to have thorough soil treatments done if your intention is to both keep out and protect the structure. Since the barrier in the soil prevents the termites from being able to enter the home, the ones left in the wood will die from dehydration. Termites need moisture on a regular basis and usually will return to the soil at least once a day. When the soil is properly treated, they will surely die and pose no risk if left untreated.
In the past couple of years, termite bait stations have become another tool which can be used when treating for termites. The concept is simple; by installing treated stakes into the ground foraging termites will find the stakes, eat them, share them with the colony and ultimately kill the colony. This sounds so appealing for several reasons. First, it is very easy to do. Second, it is inexpensive and third, it works for ants and roaches so why not for termites? Well, there are many reasons why it won’t work every time.
Though termites target cellulose specifically, because there is so much of it around it is not likely the whole colony will feed on the treated wood alone. If enough of the treated stations are not ingested by the colony, the colony will survive. This is why it is best to view the use of bait stations as another tool for termite control. Don’t rely on bait stations alone; incorporate them into a complete package which includes liquid treatments around the entire home to prevent termites from gaining access to the home, wood and void treatment where termite activity has been noted and bait station placements where you have ideal conditions for termites to be present. This diversified defense will provide the best overall protection. Remember, wood and void treatment is designed to kill current activity. Soil treatments are designed to protect the structure by creating a treated band of soil around the home through which the termites cannot enter. Bait stations are designed to be used as monitors around the home intended on impacting local colonies BEFORE THEY EVER GET TO YOUR HOME. Clearly the best treatment strategy is the combination approach.
Termite Control Products
Now that you have a general understanding of the termite and the application methods needed for controlling this pest, you can consider which products to use for treating your infestation. If you want to do some treating for termites, first decide where you want to treat.
Wood Treatments
Baygon Aerosol
If you have wood damage or what might be current termite activity in a wall void, use some BAYGON AEROSOL. This product comes with a tube which enables you to inject it deep into damaged wood cavities or galleries created by termites. Baygon is easy to use, kills termites on contact and will last for several months in the wood.
Boracare
If you have a large area of exposed wood you would like to treat, use BORACARE. This product is in the Boron family so it is both low in odor and safe. It is clear, mixes with water and is applied with a pump sprayer. Boracare works for powderpost beetles, carpenter ants and decay fungi. It has special carriers which enable it to penetrate untreated wood. Boracare works as a stomach poison. If termites try to eat treated wood, they will die. Boracare lasts a long time. A good treatment is expected to last several years and even longer when applied into protected wall voids where breakdown due to rain and sunshine will not occur. If you have a small area to treat, the Baygon will suffice. If you have a large area like a the wood joists and sill plate above a crawl space, use the Boracare.
Termidor
And if you’ve had an ongoing problem and want the best active possible, go with the TERMIDOR. It’s a bit pricey but if there are termites in the space, it will knock them out for sure. It’s different in that it uses the “transfer effect” which means the chemical is passed on from termite to termite once one comes in contact with it. Termites can’t detect it’s even present so they don’t know what’s causing the problem once they start dying. Typically they’ll retreat once this happens and your infestation will simply disappear. Termidor is rapidly becoming the product of choice when troubleshooting a problem area and many companies are opting to use it around the home as well for their complete soil barrier. Unlike the conventional liquids which repel termites, Termidor is undetectable so the termites won’t try to circumvent or move around where it’s been applied.
Soil Treatments
Now that you know what to use for treating wall voids where Drywood or Subterranean termites might be living, you need to consider a soil treatment. As explained above, this material will bind to the soil and provide several years of protection. This will keep foraging termites from finding your house and feeding on it.
If you want the best protection possible, go with the TERMIDOR. Granted it does cost more to apply but since it’s undetectable, the local termite population won’t even know its there. That means the risk of them “moving around” or trying to find gaps in the barrier is effectively eliminated. All these products are low to no odor and are easy to work with. Apply the material with a HOSE END SPRAYER. Use this applicator for treating trenches but it can also be used if you are treating mulch piles, pine straw, wood chips and other places around the home and/or adjacent to the structure where termites like to feed. If you have termite tunnels going up a tree you don’t want damaged, be sure to treat it at the base. Be careful and safe.
Conclusion
In summary, termites are a pest which can cause a lot of damage in and around the home. In order to protect the structure you own, use a combination of the best materials and application methods available today. These include wall or void treatment when treating for drywood termites or active subterranean termites, subslab and perimeter soil treatments alongside foundation walls to prevent the local colonies from having access to your home and bait station installations to monitor local activity. This approach will help you keep activity on your property minimized as well as out of your home.
Many thanks to BugSpray.com for contributing this article. If you have any questions about termites or any mentioned in this article, just give BugSpray a call or shoot them an email:
You can discuss the article below in the comments section or share it through a variety of different sites. You can also sign up to our newsletter below. Don’t forget to check our Pest Control Directory for companies in your area who do termite control.